The Sagulator Even with correct brackets make sure it doesn't sag! Remember edgeband (or using a strip of wood on the edge of the shelf) can have a large impact on the load capability. Step 5: Put your bookshelf back into place at the same level as. Make sure the adhesive side is facing the wall. Step 4: Line up the velcro straps in vertical positions and hold them in place by asking someone to assist you. You can fill the shelves with books later. I have listed a few tools that can help you determine the width span and sizing of the shelves: Step 3: It is best to secure the bookshelf to the wall without any books in it. Here is the technical consideration of MDF and composite shelf. These brackets fit inside the floating shelf and help keep it secured to the wall without being visible to the naked eye. Since I don't know the exact numbers (such as load metal thickness etc) the best i can do is point you to some sources that can help you solve the matter. Even if it acts as one unit, as correctly mentioned above a second shear point is created at the edge of the bracket and the shelf. So it is important to know if the bracket is attached to the shelf as this will cause it to act in many respects as one unit. A second bending moment/point is created between the shelf and the bracket. Things become more complicated as the shelf extends beyond the end of the bracket. The maximum shear force would be at the bracket base (thus why brackets are larger at the base). The max load for bending moment would be as if all the weight it focused on the tip of the bracket. When a bracket extends to edge of the shelf then the shelf itself and it's load can be treated as having a well established load limit. Then there is the moment forces, which is more of turning/twisting force. There is the straight downward force that is normally called the shear force. There are two basic forces at play in a bracket system. Also where the load is place will be become a more important factor at play. Using the brackets would change the load they could carry. I am assuming that since you said brackets for 11" shelves, that means the brackets are "designed" for 11" shelves and that they in themselves are not 11" long. To answer your question though, "yes and no" the brackets for the 11" shelves would work up to a point. If you have some kind of paneling, you'll want to anchor directly to studs behind. Same with a wood finished wall (such as v-match pine). If your walls are a concrete block (like many student dormitories here in the U.S.) you'll be fine. If you put several anchors into the wall for each rail, you'll have plenty of weight bearing capability. Are your walls drywall? If so, can you sink both brackets into studs behind the drywall? If you can, no worries about weight, if you can't hit then most anchor systems are going to be rated for 75-125 lbs(about 34-57 kilograms) for 5/8" drywall (1.5cm). You haven't mentioned what you're attaching the brackets to. However, you have one big unanswered question. The grain of the wood will be perpendicular to the brackets, which would give you a chance to break the wood out at the end, but how much weight can you really put on the last 3 3/8"? Certainly it's not ideal, but I don't know what you have for hardware stores in Israel. The standards should be just barely snug against the wall if you drive the screws in too far, you may damage the wall surface.If the shelf you're putting up is a solid wood shelf and not particle board, an 11" bracket will be fine (assuming it's a metal bracket). Poke awl holes and drive screws into each remaining screw hole location in the standard, making sure it's positioned perfectly plumb. Plumb is indicated when the bubbles in the top and bottom vials are centered. Set your level alongside the standard, adjusting the position so that it is perfectly plumb (that is, vertical). This will make it easier to set and drive the screw.ĭrive a screw through the top hole, just deep enough to hold the standard in place securely don’t make it so tight that you can’t move the standard a little. When you are satisfied with the location, stick an awl through the top screw hole in the standard, marking a small indentation in the wall. Set the first standard in place at the intended height, centered over a stud. It is easiest to attach shelf standards with a helper, although it's possible to do the job yourself. The Spruce Home Improvement Review Board.
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